Day 1 - 16.3miles - Saint-Jean to Roncesvalles
Updated: Jan 6
5.45 the alarm went off. The excitement and the dread set in at the same time. We are beginning our Camino with a 24.7km hike over the Pyrenees. The total ascent is similar to climbing Ben Nevis and we will both be carrying a pack.
At 7a.m. we had made our way into SJPDP loaded up and ready to go. We took a few steps. And stopped for Mum to take some photos. We took a few more steps and I stopped at the bakery for a pastry. Another few steps. More photos. Nik sighed!
We waved our goodbyes and began the walk in earnest. Very shortly out of the town the road started to climb. And climb. And climb. The views were already stunning and we were already sweating. By about 8 it was time to reassess the attire. Zip off trousers earning their money and the raincoats we were wearing packed away.
We trudged onwards. And upwards. We met our first pilgrim in need, a chap from Holland called Vince. He was carrying a large sleeping bag and his spare shoes in a bag for life. So we broke out some cord and helped him fix it to his pack and walked together. He hitchhiked here from Paris, taking 3 days! He has a budget of 10euro a day for accomodation and food, so will be sleeping tonight in his hammock in the forest!
We trudged onwards. And upwards.
The first stop for a lot of pilgrims is an old refuge turned hostel at Orisson. It has phenomenal views from its decking. A coffee and a sandwich better we continued.
It was hard going but after a few more hours we saw the track lead away from the road very very steeply. A little refreshment van provided needed liquid sugar and the drawing on the side of the van promised 1km climbing, 5km flat, 5km downhill. Elated we have nearly finished climbing we set off.
We trudged onwards. And upwards.
The steep section was rocky and tough but rewarding to reach the top where we smiled, hugged, and called in to Mum to say the hard part was over.
We trudged onwards. On the flat, through forest paths lined with leaves. It was beautiful. Our hearts lifted, our pace increased. We passed a fountain and refilled our water pouches before walking over the border into Spain.
1km or so after the hard climb we rounded a bend and saw a huge hill stretched out in front. Git at the van lied!!
We trudged onwards. And upwards.
Around another 3km later we finally reached the marked peak. Legs burning, feet sore but ready for the final stretch.
The last 5km worked downhill, through woods and alongside small rivers and waterfalls. Passed old refuges and bunkers lining the french/Spanish border.
We trudged onwards. And downwards!!
At around 4pm we arrived at albergue roncesvalles-orreage, our accomodation for the night. Checked in we are in a bunk bed in a large room, split into 4 bed cubicles. There is space for 217 pilgrims in this building, with a 3 course dinner tonight at 8.30 pm and breakfast at 7am.
The shower was heaven, the beer is the nectar from the gods.
And tomorrow we will do it again!!
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