Day 12 - 24km - Belorado to San Juan

Today has been an emotional day. We heard the news in waking that my Nan and Niks mother in law had passed after a battle with pancreatic cancer. It was expected and it is good to know she passed in her sleep and is now dancing somewhere with my grandad, however it is still difficult.

We are here together and have a walk ahead of us so we will focus on that. I spent time on today's walk thinking of good times with her and my grandad. Playing off ground tag on the beach, crocket or badmington in the garden and more recent memories talking about how they met so many years ago. Rest in peace nan and I'm sure you are with us every step of this journey.

Nik has been struggling a little over the last few days. The Achilles injury is slowly improving, however it is still sore and we have to take it steady. He has then managed to gain the daddy of all blisters on the other foot. It's a monster! So as he laid in bed last night relaxing he was somewhat surprised when my phone fell of the shelf above the top bunk, smoothly slid straight between the bed and the wall and landed squarely on his forehead. To say he was not impressed was an under statement!

We set off from Belorado at our usual sort of time and the flat road to villafrance was uninspiring. From here however the path was much more enticing with a long incline often quite steep towards the first of two high points on the path. As we stood looking out at the view a few Germans arrived. The type that have one volume setting - full blast. We waited for them to bugger off, as did another German chap who then apologised on behalf of his entire country.

The path wound upwards through the forest with birds chirping and the sun shining until we reached the Oasis del Camino. A chap stood with various items from flasks of coffee to gaudily painted conch shells. We stopped and had a good natter and a drink. The clearing was full of seating and wood painted brightly and a speaker played random movie theme tunes (the good, the bad and the ugly as we arrived, which conincidentally was partly filmed in the city we arrive in tomorrow, Burgos). After some push ups and a chat, Nik for to help with a little bit of painting and we continued on over the second high point and then down towards our gaff!

San Juan de Ortega is a big and happening place. Well it has 5 buildings. A hotel, a monastery and our Albergue/Bar were 3 of them!!

The seating area out the front was bathed in sunlight and a relaxing haven for pilgrims. We ordered a diavola pizza and two beers and sat in the garden at around 1pm. Pilgrims old and new joined us throughout the afternoon and we shared stories from the journey and from back home. It was the best place to be today, and one of the best places from this journey. We have a small room with only 4 of us so a good sleep is looking likely.

A day of very low and very high points but one that was made better for being surrounded by interesting and caring people with whom we buold such strong friendships in short times.

I'm going to sign off now, before I fall asleep and drop my phone on Niks head again.

Good night pilgrims. Rest well. We start again at dawn!