Day 20 - 22.5km - Astorga to Foncebaddon

Back on your feet pilgrims. It's walking time!

Today we swapped back from the bikes to the walking shoes and hit the road at 7am. No breakfast this morning - we aim to grab something on route.

Because the longer days took their toll on the Achilles injury earlier in the trip we have now planned days at around the 20-22km range to keep it manageable. Today we begin the climb to one of the most iconic and spiritual parts of the journey - Cruz de Ferro - but that is tomorrow's story!

We left our Albergue and began the walk at a steady pace. The scenery is changing again and we are back to rolling hills, trees and flowers. It is beautiful after the last few days of flat paths along the roadside.

Our first stop was Santa Catalina after around 5km where we met various small groups forming a larger group of around 30 pilgrims. They are all in an organised group arranged by Dr Jeremiah Gibbs. I watched a number of his YouTube videos on walking the Camino, blister care, spiritual and religious expectations etc before we set off. So it was strange to overtake him as we marched through our day!!

We had a good chat with a few of them and then continued to the next town. We found a small cafe where they offered a "deseyano completo" - a full breakfast. So at 9.30 am I sat with 2 fried eggs, a few rashers of bacon, two pork chops and chips. With a coffee. For 7euro.

Stuffed and feeling not so clever we continued on. It was a great walk and we marched at a good pace through woods, and up the hill until we reached Foncebaddon, a small town that seems to be only pilgrim hostels. We sat in front of an open fire and each beer came with small snacks - nachos, cheese on toast, potatas bravas.

Then the sun came out and we sat in the garden. There is stuff all around so we befriended a few big dogs, some goats and a donkey. Then I had a small yellow butterfly land on my hand for a minute.

A truly great day on the Camino. Spirits are high!

We are having dinner here then an early night, as tomorrow we intend to hike an hour before sunrise ....

Sleep tight pilgrims, tomorrow is a big day...