Day 21 - 20km - Foncebaddon to Molinaseca

Today is an important day in our pilgrimage for we will reach the Cruz de Ferro. Sat high up a hillside the iron cross is a spiritual place of unberdoning. Pilgrims from all over the world carry small stones from home all the way here, to represent the burdens that they carry. Thinking on these as you walk and the worries of your past and future is a big part of the Camino and the reason a lot of people make the journey. Dropping your stone, and the weight from your pack, is a physical representation of the mental changes you make along the way.

Our accomodation was 2km away from the Cruz, so we woke really early and snuck out like naughty schoolkids for an early start - we left just after 6 and began our uphill section in the dark. It was peaceful as we set off and there was just enough light to see by as we walked upwards. The track was wide and the footing good and we arrived at the famed spot around 6.40. unfortunately the Cruz is surrounded by trees and the mist had dropped low, so we were not going to get the spectacular sunrise we had hoped for!

It was great being out early as we were there alone and able to take time to think of our burdens as we dropped of our stones that have come all the way from France and England. It was an emotional moment thinking on what those burdens represent and the stories behind them. A big milestone in our journeys, both physically and mentally has been achieved.

After a few minutes contemplation we continued on, expecting to be heading downhill - surely the iconic cross is at the top of the hill. Surely?

We trudged onwards. And upwards.

We didn't actually trudge this time though. It was a nice walk through trees, with birds singing and the path to ourselves. Though for almost an hour we continued uphill, catching some magnificent views of the surrounding countryside.

Then began the descent. It was long. Very long. And steep. The path was loose, sharp rocks and it was tough going. It was around 5km of downhill before the next town. We arrived and sat at a cafe with an Australian father and son pairing and a couple of guys from the states. Nik was in his element when he learned they had Tetley's tea bags and jam on toast.

After a short relax we continued the long downhill through the sharp rocks, our feet taking a pounding for another 8km.

On the walk I got a Facebook message from one of the girls staying at our accomodation letting me know I had forgot my passport and my pilgrim credential! Luckily I had helped her out with moleskin for her blisters last night so she is going to bring it along and drop it to me! How fortunate that she should be there to get it!

So we arrived in Molinaseca, a beautiful small town with a clear river running through. We sat in a little bar next to the river and had a small beer whilst waiting for the post lady. The sun was shining, we were happy and feeling full of good karma. The Passport received and payment in beer and tapas gratefully accepted, we checked into our accomodation. Tonight it is a "casa" like a guesthouse. Private bathroom. Hot shower. Big comfy beds. Delightful.

Nik stayed to rest and I went to scope out the town. At the church was a lovely chap providing pilgrim stamps and access to the church and we had a good chat. I talked about walking with Nik, and some of his ailments. The guy optimistically volunteered that Nik should take the pain as a sign from God that he should slow down, enjoy the surroundings more and take a rest.

This conversation reminded me of a little story I forgot to share with you from our last day on the bikes. As we were cycling to Astorga we spotted a big house to the side of the road with a storks nest on top, and we could just see a couple baby storks nestled up under Mum. So we stopped for some photos and push ups. Nik however managed to stop directly on top of an Ants nest. So all of a sudden he started feeling bites on his leg, looked down and had ants swarming up his legs. He was astride his bike at this time, and the panic swatting of ants led to an imbalance and for the second time in the week he ended up on his ass, legs tangled with bike.

I chuckled and offered "you must have commited some serious sins in your time"!!

But back to today.... It's been an emotional one. I have thought a lot about my burden over the last few years and hopefully today's release will carry forward with me as I head into the last 10 days of our hike.

For now rest lighter pilgrims, for we should look forward and worry less about what is behind.