Day 24 - 24.9km La Portela to Alto de Poio

The grand old Duke of York, he had two weary pilgrims. He marched them up to the top of the hill and he marched them down again. Then he marched them up another hill. Then down. Then just for a giggle he added a few more!!

Today is the biggest day of climbing since the first day in the Pyrenees with 1000m of ascent! It's going to be a rough one guys!

We marched out of Portela sans breakfast at around 7.20 with around 7km of "flat" ahead of us. This rolling road passed through a few small villages and followed a similar vein to yesterday entwined with the river. It was a pleasant start to the day, loosening up the muscles and getting the body back into the swing of it's daily battering.

In a small town called Vega de Valcarce we stumbled across a small cafe ran by two veteran pilgrims from Hungary. We enjoyed some fried eggs and coffee and fueled up ready for the next step of the walk. Leaving Vega we passed through las Herrerias where 4 ladies were hiring horses for the uphill. This was tempting but with Niks desire to constantly injure himself it would likely not be the best idea! We walked just ahead of the horses for the first few km of uphill. We marched at a great pace and made progress quickly up the dirt path, walking poles cracking the stones in time with our feet. We moved forward 4km to a small village with a water fountain where we shared a drink with the horses and they then continued ahead of us. The track now opened out from under the trees, to the side of a hill and as we marched higher and higher the view of the valley below us opened it. Each time we rounded a corner on the hill our breath was taken by the views.

Onward we marched. Gaining altitude but maintaining our pace, out bodies finally coping with what the Camino throws at us. We stopped and admired the view and had a can each of Kas Limon - a bitter lemon type drink that is delicious, though maybe not so refreshing (better than tonic water though Mum!), Some pringles and haribo - the sustenance of heroes!

We marched to the top of the hill at O Cebreiro which seemed like a tourist trap with a gift shop, a few bars and little else. It was so tourist trap that a Korean couple asked if they could have a photo with me and my backpack!

Our accomodation is some 8km further along the top of this hill so we carried onwards, and soon learner that O Cebreiro was definately not the top of the hill. We kept marching forward over undulating terrain. Up, down. Up, down. We passed a few towns then rounded a co n to to see the track ahead of us take the steepest route of any section of Camino so far. And just at the top is our accomodation.

Mind over matter pilgrims. Foot forward, stick forward. Click. Foot forward, stick forward. Click. Foot forward, stick forward. Click.

One step after another we marched up the hill, creating to a round of applause from the group sat in the bar having a beer.

We joined them for one. We are staying here tonight, just over the road in Pension Santa Maria. It's a bit dated to say the least, but we have a twin room and a private shower. And we have amazing views and cold beer. That's all it takes to make a happy pilgrim

We had an emotional day, a few years were shed at how we have progressed over the last few weeks. We have less than 150km to go. We got this!

Strap your feet in moleskin and compeed pilgrims. It's back downhill tomorrow!