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Day 2 - Cabo do Mundo to Arcos - 27.9km

  • Writer: Gary
    Gary
  • May 2
  • 3 min read

Today was planned to be a long day, following the coastal camino to Vila do Conde before detouring across to the Central Camino.

The coastal route is lovely, following the sea and pleasant boardwalks, however a lot of the towns are large and full of tourists. You dont get the same "pilgrimage" feeling as there was on the Camino Frances. So switching to the central once out of porto means woods and hills, albergues and pilgrims. Just what we want.


The host at our accomdation agreed we could leave some items there and pick them up when we returned to porto, so we stripped some weight out of our bags, leaving duplicate items and heavier stuff behind to make the journey easier on our backs. So last night we sorted all our stuff, then popped to the bar for a quick drink. Or not so quick. A good atmosphere and good mojito kept us up a little late. But we will survive!


We set out along the boardwalks and beaches seeing the fisherman lined up along the rocks and others clambering over them! Brave or stupid who knows!


About 5km we took a minor detour for coffee and pastries. Much needed and great coffee. The espressos and cortados for 1 euro are not to be grumbled at!!


We then met a local chap coming up from the rocks with a bag. A friendly chat later and we found out he was harvesting muscles and barnacles to take home and cook. Yesterday in the queue at the cathedral a pleasant, albeit not so well mannered lady, was eating an apple whilst talking to Tina she got apple spittled! Today a random portuguese man showing us barnacles made one spit fishy sea water at her. What will tomorrows random spitting adventure be!!


An hour later we hit the fishermans village of Angeiras, with the boats, lobster pots, and older women sat selling fish. It was lovely to walk through and gave us a good feeling we were moving out of the touristy hotspots.


Another hour or two of boardwalks - some of which are collapsed and others which look like they are about to - we decided to stop for lunch just before we switched off the coastal.


I have seen many a time the "Francesinha" advertised as a porto specialty. It looks like a toasty in a bowl swimming in tomato soup with an egg. Rancid.


But when in Rome....


So we had one to share, chosing the one called Like A Boss. Why not. It was great. Basically a sandwich with a thick sirloim steak, bacon, chorizo and cheese in a really thick gravy. A quick google reveals the gravy contains lager, port, white wine and brandy. 11/10 will eat again!!


After our light lunch we started following the road across to Arcos and the central route. This transferring route is known, but doesnt have the best paths, mostly along busy roads with little hard shoulder. Not very photogenic but somewhat necessary! It was a long old slog, with many a backpack adjustment and some moleskin on the feet.


We eventually made it to San Miguel de Arcos and found reception.

Ah.

"You have a twin room booked?"

Yes

"Gary"

Yes

"Ah. I have another Gary staying. He has been given the twin room. You have the marital bed"

This was not well recieved. After asking which room said other Gary was in, i went and asked if he would mind swapping. Which of course he didnt. Thankfully! I dont know how Mum would have felt in the sleeping bag on the floor whilst i had a nice big double bed. At least today we wont have to find out.


Our evening wind down of a little light yoga, a swim in the pool (a toe dip for Tina) and a hot shower, we are feeling a little more alive.

There is a live band and hogroast in the next town. Time for an uber.


Whilst the start to finish of the camino recorded on the app is 27.9km, we move around before, after, and when the watch is paused for lunch etc. So Garmin has recorded a total of over 33km today. And our feet feel it!


Bed before 1am tonight. Promise.


A shorter day tomorrow! See you all then!



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